Posts made by cp65

@braceru31 try changing the -tickRate from 30 to 20 and see if that works

It's my understanding that Scott plans to try to fix the water physics in a future update.

Step-by-step instructions for saving dds files in Photoshop

1. When you are ready to save your skin as a dds, you will need to flatten the layers so it is in one (1) layer. To do this, go to the Layer menu and select the Flatten Image option.

2. The program will then ask you if you want to discard any hidden layers. Click the OK button.

3. You then need to save the image using the Save As option. Be careful not to select the Save option. If you do, you will lose your layers. (If that happens at this point in the process, go to the History window (Window/History) and click on the line titled Open and the file will revert back to the state it was before you flattened the layers. You can then save the file again and it will be fine.) This is the step where you need to slow down if you're trying to get things done as fast as possible so you don't make a mistake. You'll actually save time by doing this step slowly.

4. Once the Save As window opens, go down to the Format drop down menu and the dds file format should be an option if you installed the plug-in correctly. Select it and then hit the Save button.

5. The nvidia dds plug-in window then opens. Select the type of dds file you want to save your skin as. Select DXT1 for a main paint scheme or DXT5 for a metallic file if the scheme doesn’t use the default met files. You can then hit the Save button and let the plug-in do its thing. You’ll know when it's done. You can then close the file and move to the next file or you can close the program.

I should be able to do the '82 version since I have plans to update the '81 version anyway.

There is a plug-in for Photoshop that lets you save and open dds files.

What kind of tweaks to the Pay N' Pak are you wanting to make? I have to original psd files for the boat as well as the logos that I made for it.

Chris Porten U-65 Important Boat Designs

This one? I have it, but it won't look good in HydroSim due to the model that was used in rFactor.

Coming back to the boat design options, I'd like to see the boat models be modular where you can modify the parts on the boats from a menu in game. We could have drop down menus with boat part options, so we can choose the parts we want. The boat could start out as sponsons, turn fin, rudder, propeller, strut and drive shaft and then you add the other parts. In HydroMod, we had four deck designs (modern turbine, older turbine/U13, Leland turbine and modern piston). Those could be the options for the deck designs. You could do that for all the options until you have a finished boat.

I know this may not be possible, but it would be nice to have.

From the HydroSim Paints Schemes page, there are check boxes next to the folders. Select the folders (must be more that one) you want to download and a navy blue Download button will pop up on the right. Click that button and your download will pop up at the bottom of the page and will act like any normal download.

If you want just the boats in a certain folder (example Real Boats), enter that folder and select the all check box at the top of the list just below the navy blue Create new file button. Just like the other situation, the navy blue Download button will pop up and you can download the files.

Cei currently has 18 boats on the list. That's too many. As for my boats, I've removed the U48 Oberto from the list so I only have the U65 now.

I did the Oh Brother for Cei, but he's never used it and probably never will.

We can already reset buoys if you're signed in as an admin, which anyone can do with the password. As for the view from the cockpit being darker, we already know about it and I think Scott plans to fix it. The other suggestions are good if they're possible.

I would recommend using the Logitech Gaming Software with the following settings (degrees of rotation is personal preference).

As for the pedals not working, it might have something to do with the USB port it's pugged into. I had the same issue with my G27 recently and was able to fix it by moving to a different USB port. Since you're on a laptop, there may not be another port available.

I think I'll attempt to redo this boat at some point along with the Competition Specialties and Vantage Ultra from '88.

The files could be ported over as is, but it would still have the "shadows".

boat change
U-48 Oberto Specialty Meats

@Scott-Przybylski is there a way to add force-feedback for controllers?

The Logitech Gaming Software will indicate if any buttons are activated. If button 18 is constantly activated, press it a few times to try to get it unstuck. If that doesn't fix it, then the button is malfunctioning and you'll have to RMA it. RMA means you send it back to Logitech for repairs.

I was just thinking button 18 might be stuck activated so when you try to assign a control, it immediately detects button 18 since it's already activated. My G27 will do this if the shifter is in gear (usually 3rd) when I try to change a control assignment.

Not sure what's going on there, but here are the Logitech Gaming Software settings I use for my G27. They should work on any Logitech wheel.